cartridge cap here<\/a><\/p>\nRegrettably this guide is currently half written. Updates soon.<\/p>\n
Contents<\/h3>\n
\n
Part 0 Requirements
\nPart 1 Shell Preparation
\nPart 2 Building the Motherboard
\nPart 3 Fitting Internals
\nPart 4 Wiring
\nPart 5 Finishing
\nPart 6 Extras & Mods<\/p>\n
Bill of materials<\/h3>\n
\nComponents<\/h4>\n
1x Raspberry Pi Zero
\n1x Gameboy DMG01 Shell
\n1x A+B button rubbers
\n2x Reproduction Buttons\u00a0 X+Y
\n1x 3.5″ car reversing camera screen
\n2x 3D printed Button wells or Nylon spacers 10mm inner diameter, 3mm tall
\n4x Threaded nylon hex spacer M3, 6mm tall
\n1x Control PCB
\n1x Veroboard \/ perfboard
\n2x Long pole tactile button
\n1x 4000mAh Lipo Battery with battery connector (recommended mAh)
\n1x Battery boost and charge circuit
\n1x Dual channel 3W amplifier circuit
\n1x 3W speaker
\n1x Headphone jack
\n1x Male 40pin dual row header
\n1x Female 40pin dual row double hight header
\n1x Glass view-port cover
\n1x 10k Thumb potentiometer
\n1x 5v PNP transistor
\n1x Veroboard
\nSome wire (3m of various colors)<\/p>\n
Tools<\/h4>\n
1x Rotary tool & dust mask
\n1x Set of small files
\n1x Small junction pliers
\n1x 10mm bit and maybe a drill ( unless the bit fits your rotary )
\nRecommended: Multimeter<\/p>\n
Part 1 – Shell Preparation<\/h3>\n
\nNotes <\/strong><\/h4>\nSome things to keep I mind as you go:
\nWhen working with the case it is important to use fine grade rotary bits or sand paper to finish off any cuts or etches.
\nWhen working with veroboard \/ stripboard it is a good idea to check connections are properly broken at every step either visually or with a multimeter<\/p>\n
Raspberry Pi<\/strong><\/h4>\nSolder a set of male headers to the Pi Zero facing up off the unit.<\/p>\n
Control PCB<\/strong><\/h4>\nSolder male headers to the back (so soldering done on the front) of the control PCB.<\/p>\n
Button wells<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf you cant get hold of 3d printed button wells then the two nylon spacers described in the BOM will become our button wells with a bit of work.
\nFirstly file down the internal holes of the spacers untill the face buttons move freely in and out then using the rotary tool create opposing notches in the internal holes for the two guides protruding off the button to move through. Next the two spacers need to be glued together in a figure of 8 in such a way that they line up with the original button holes on the shell.<\/p>\n
Extra button holes<\/strong><\/h4>\nYou will need to print out a button drill guide, line it up and poke through the paper guide with a sharp point to mark the center of the button & where to drill. Next drill the holes and check the buttons can move freely through the holes. Now you get your button wells and glue them on the inside of the shell inline with the new button holes. If you are using the nylon spacers you will notice that you have to remove a couple of portions of the outer edge to get it to fit.<\/p>\n
Raspberry pi zero slot<\/strong><\/h4>\nOn the back half of the shell, directly under the opening for the cartridge slot are some plastic posts. Cut the plastic walls leading from the posts to the slot opening. you will be left with a nook the perfect size for a raspberry pi zero. now carefully etch out the plastic, to make the bottom of the nook raspberry pi shaped minding not to got all the way through the case. Try to get the pi to be as flush with the back of the case as possible.\u00a0 Fit the Pi with the port side (not the nautical port side) facing out of the cart slot.<\/p>\n
B<\/strong>attery Cutout<\/strong><\/h4>\nCut the top portion of the edge of the battery compartment out leaving the battery doors latch intact. File down the small walls in the bottom of the compartment and leave it flat.<\/p>\n
Spacers<\/strong><\/h4>\nOn the back half of the shell, add the hex spacers one by one to the top four screw posts. Screw them in as if you where shutting the shell.<\/p>\n